WOW Berlin Mag – Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture SS 16 by Coco Spina

Welcome to the Paris of the eighties, in the prestigious nightclub Le Palace. Intellectuals, designers, musicians and all the jetsetters elected this place as a headquarter. In this flamboyant location, we might have encounter a decadent Yves Saint Laurent and Jean Paul himself. As often, Jean Paul Gaultier is the apostle of a generation. The second generation of great couturiers, who fixed the rules of contemporary fashion industry.

WOW Berlin Mag Jean Paul Gaultier 2016 Haute Couture

The atmosphere is of course relaxed but undeniably glamorous. It is the Parisian’s women art of being sophisticated even wearing a pyjama.

The sleepwear inspiration is at the center of the attention, especially at the beginning of the show. It is also one of the main trends of the year, and it will be the king of 2016 spring-summer collections (we saw it, for example, at Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana).

This garment, that English imported in Europe from India, confers a negligee chic. It also evokes orientalism and exotic in general. We are therefore projected in a bewitching atmosphere, warm and sensual. We are in the licentious Paris of the early eighties, we can smell Saint Laurent’s Opium. The pyjama is also synonym of masculinity.         Mannish attitude has been one of the most important vectors of emancipation in feminine fashion during these years. Androgyny and ambiguity are very well represented by Gaultier in this show. Tuxedos give a Y silhouette: the bust is imposing and it controls body’s barycenter, supported by a belt embracing the waist size (several styles have been proposed: leather, silk or simple tie used as a belt). The lower body moves freely, also helped by trousers’ draped.

Later in the show, some more punk outfits are shown. We therefore could see shorts, black lace dresses, fishnet stockings and even the mythical creepers shoes, an homage to the underground culture of this period.

Jewels were also very explicative of this time. The looks are completed by oversize earrings and long and heavy necklaces more similar to fake ones than precious.

Of course, corsets are also highlighted: they externally wrap the bust; sometimes they are just cages structures.

It was a classical Jean Paul Gaultier show. Smiling models, ambiguity, a joyful party atmosphere, corsets, opulence.