WOW Berlin Mag – Versace Couture SS 16 by Coco Spina

As usually bold and controversial, Atelier Versace proposes a collection about feminine power. Eccentric and hyper sexual, this interpretation of femininity is a very Versace one. Women’s most powerful weapons seems to be skinny cuts, plunging necklines, long and tonic naked legs and flashy colors (above all, never hide).

The key point is of course the body’s veneration. Healthy, sporty and totally controlled, Versace’s body is an intensified version of the ancient Greek one.

It would be easy to claim for a more intellectual and spontaneous vision of femininity. However, the futuristic image of women promoted by this show is also quite inspiring.

It is a show about women and sport. The music is cadenced and repetitive, like a military march. The walk is determined and rapid. The show itself is like a gymnastic session. Or maybe an action movie extract.

Technical elements remember extreme sport accessories. Racer necklines, flashy uniforms, mountain-climbing hardware and Swarovski crystal rope, some colored to resemble sport laces. White pants at the beginning of the show fit like comfortable leggings. Colors are neutral white and black, embroidered like a spider web; yellow and orange catch the eye, just like a security jacket; the blue and white matches play with swimsuit codes; the use of embroideries let us see the nudity of muscled bodies, giving a sense of effort.

This is also a show about high tech. These women are bionic heroines from a fantasy movie. They could be from Matrix, X-Men or Star Wars. Faces are cold and severe: 2016 Versace woman is almost a robot, a war machine. There is a very aggressive aspect in this collection. Technology is also in innovative techniques that the Atelier used. For example, the silicone gel worked into panels enveloping the ribcage; lather-backed velvet cut into elaborated webs and bright laces similar to snakes (a peculiar symbol of the Italian fashion house).

A futuristic and powerful woman, indeed. But are those skinny and denudated garments, combined with very high heels, really practical for an independent woman, aiming to move freely in her reality?
That is the question.