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WOW Berlin Mag – Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture SS 16 by Coco Spina

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have always been infatuated with the idea of breaking down barriers. At the center of their work, there is the need of reinterpreting what is classical. Upside down is definitely their leitmotiv. For the couture collection spring-summer 2016, the Dutch fashion house explores the basic concept of “polo shirt”.
By working a technical piqué in a virginal white remembering marble shades, Viktor & Rolf transform this classical garment in a plastic material.WOW Berlin Mag Review Trends viktor-rolf-haute-couture-collection-spring-summer-2016-performance-sculptures_dezeen_1568_2
The collection is a reflection about the relationship between the garment and one who wears it. How can a garment model a body? How a body can make a garment alive?

Mannequins become living sculptures moving in a dreamy space. The complexity of the creations progressively increases following the process of shaping a marble block. It could remind Michelangelo’s Prisoners, the uncompleted sculptures that show how movement is gradually liberated from the stone. All along the show, clothes take over the body until it totally disappears. At the end of the show, instead of the classical defile, lights reveal an authentic museum exhibition. The creative act is driven by the music, a piano remake of Radiohead’s Creep.

Sculptures are inspired by Cubism. It gives on one side, destructured and asymmetrical cuts; on the other side, an unconstructed body, where all parts are mixed and projected in a multidimensional space.
With this collection, Viktor & Rolf question the eternal issue: is fashion an art? From which point a garment become an art piece? At which minute of this show garments are transformed in something else?
In any case, they remind the first role of couture: showing the way of excellence and innovation.