The 38th edition of São Paulo Fashion Week held place in Parque Cândido Portinari between November 3rd and 7th, which defined the start of the 20 years celebration. The main south hemisphere fashion week presented the collections for the 2015 Winter, where extension and connection, change and movements, essential life lines and creativity were the most featured elements of this edition. by Megs Gervasio
Animale premiered not only the passerelle of this São Paulo Fashion Week edition, as well as Vitorino Campos, the new designer which didn’t let the bar drop down. The brand debut a collection inspired in the silk route where the designer idea was to place the contemporary and relaxed woman travelling that route. Wtih fabrics like cotton, wool, velvet and silk, of course, Vitorino created shirt, dresses, skirts, pants, and coats, with lots of fluidity, a lot of volume and movement, sensual and modern, minimalist, straight and assymetric, in the most varied earth tones.
Patricia Bonaldi, already known individually, debuted the second line of PatBo, showing once again to her admirers her splendid embroidery that only Patricia can make. The designer presented a collection inspired in the Celtic civilization, with medieval touches, very chic and luxurious, balancing straight and fluid pieces, high tailoring with street aspects, creating a feminine and young silhouette. In black, grey, red, blue and natural tones the varied coats, blouses, skirts, dresses, pants and even the shoes were ornamented with her embroidery and patterns, shown in a lot of lengths and in a lot of heavy fabrics like wool, tweed, jacquard and fleece.
The Andrea Vieira’s brand, PatPat’s, debuted for 2015 Winter a young, free, light and loose spirited collection characterized in leather pieces, graffited and stamped. In a collaborations with Valentina Falk and Bruno Bogossian, the brand presented a line inspired in the normcore, the 90’s grunge and in the street attitude, relaxed, and transforming the leather in ways that it seemed another fabric, that was utilized in jackets, skirts, blouses, and in colors like black, white, gold and silver, green, pink and yellow.
With Priscilla Darolt premiering as creative director of, the brand was inspired by the south America civilizations for the making of this 2015 Winter collection. Through the graphics, the colors and the tear of the Andean people, the brand made minimalist pieces, practical, urban without forgetting the delicacy. The cardigans and ponchos inspired in the civilizations typical garments, were opposed with silk pieces, fluid and feminine, in whites, gray, orange, blue, pink and wine.
The inspiration for the Triton collection for the winter, Star Wars, could not be have been better explicit in all the line. The Stormtroopers uniforms were converted to street wear pieces com a lot of sporty details, relaxed and modern. Between straight and rigid shapes, exaggerated shoulder pads, arose jackets, skinny pants, capes, and boots, in colors also inspired in the saga, like white, black, metals, sand, beije and blue. There were also some pieces that resembled more to the DNA of the brand, like loose dresses, short and in transparent fabrics.
For the 2015 winter, Iódice shows a line inspired in Africa and in the Nigerian Woodabe tribe, transforming their pieces with a lot of warm colors. In a mix of tribal prints and crochet made by the convicts of the Professor Ariovaldo de Campos Pires penitentiary, with a rock’n’roll-ish attitude, was possible to see from shorts to leather pants with strapless tops, dresses, knitted coats, deep V necks and gladiator style sandals, in blue, red, nude, black and white tones, that are adaptable for fashionistas as well for discreet women.
The designer Patricia Vieira, surprised, once again, with the 2015 winter collection. Already known to the mutations that she’s capable to do to the leather, the designer shown jackets, shirts, tops, skirts, dresses and pants, inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright architecture and the Nordic landscapes of Stockholm. Patricia Vieira also includes crystals, disposed in cross stitch shape, manually, glaze, tye die, patterns that resemble nets and flowers, in a line in red, yellow, pink, blue, purple, beije, black and off-white tones, that’s soft, feminine and easy to wear.
The Glória Coelho proposal in the São Paulo fashion week was a new structure of feminine clothes. The designer was inspired by the metamorphose of the structures and utilized some unexpected materials, like vinyl, the acetate crape and the leather, in her creations that were unified by sewn stitches and adorned manually with Swarovski crystals. With very straight and geometric cuts, Glória Coelho presented a very feminine and sporty line with shorts, jackets, crop tops, and skirts in yellow, bordeaux, beige, camel, ice, black, nude, silver and scarlet.
For the 2015 Winter, Osklen was inspired in a globetrotter couple that goes thought a lot of places like forests, metropolis, glaciers and deserts, creating clothing pieces that adapt themselves to these climates, comfortable and completely wearable, minimalists and clean. A very complete linen whit skirts, silk jackets, shorts, reinterpretations of some pieces like the trenchcoat, the military look and the jeans, making them more chic and young, pieces inspired by lingerie, the brand utilized very different colors like the military green, red, Bordeaux, black, off-white, marine blue, chino and raw, in fabrics like woo, silk and knit to create very original pieces.
Iceland was the inspiration for the colletion of the young spirited brand 2nd Floor. Through prints and blues and whites of the landscapes of the country, the brand debuted young pieces, joyful and sporty to the daily basis. Between jackets, sweats and jeans, there was also short dresses, shorts and t-shirts to conterbalance. The collection still has fabrics like wool, jacquard and neoprene suitable to warm us in the next Winter.
This year, Acqua Studio presented a collection very gold and luxurious. With inspiration in the mining Baroque art, the brand transposed key elements of it like flowers, angels, leaves, in dresses, short and long, skinny and other a lot voluminous in gold and creame tones, that show very well the decorative exuberance. So that there was no doubt, Acqua Studio still included manually embroidered pieces, with stones, beads and glass beads, lace and eccentric tulle, well reminding the queens and the princesses.
Debuting in the São Paulo Fashion Week passerelle, Wagner Kallieno showed a collection inspired in the work of the photographer Newton. As the photographer portrayed in his work, the pieces of the line were full of geometry and angles, standing out the feminine shapes. The collection has a lot of skirts, dresses, jackets and sweats, with clean cuts, shaped waists and exaggerated cleavages, in color like black, white and camel. In a mixture of vinyl, resinated jeans, fleece, silk grosgrain and canvas fabric, o designer creates a consistent line that transmitted very well the feminine elegance with the relaxation.
The winner couple of the Movimento Hot Spot project, in the category of fashion, debuted the collection to the 2015 winter inspired on the mixture of unusual raw materials, in the manual abilities celebration, in the baroque elements, in the contrasts between the sporty and chic, in the density and lightness, romanticism and irony. In materials like silk, line gauzes, wool and lace, Llas shown dresses, skirts, bomber jackets, embellished with flowers, letters, watermelons and rainbows, in a lot of colors like the marine, black, white, pink and red. A young, relaxed and adorable collection.