SPRING SUMMER 2016 – Giving continuity to our series of interviews about the menswear collections for next summer, we spoke to Marco Rechenberg, Style Editor of GQ Germany. He, who has a sharp eye for stylish things, shared his impressions with us about the Italian fashion and the collections that were presented at Milano Moda Uomo. (Portrait and interview by Hermano Silva).
Amongst the young designers, which one was a revelation for you this season in Milan?
Alessandro Michele’s show for Gucci, which can be understood to be his first fully worked-out men’s’ collection for the house was particularly interesting. It showed that he is committed to the vision of an eccentric, gender-fluid Gucci man, which is a bold and laudable choice, considering Gucci is one of largest labels in the world.
Which were the strongest shows in your opinion?
I like Stefano Pilati‘s collection for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture for the beautiful shapes he presented, Italo Zucchelli‘s designs for Calvin Klein for the masculine cuts and fabrics and Miuccia Prada‘s show for its over boarding creativity.
What is the piece of clothing or item that is becoming a trend now and it is worth investing because it will remain ‘in’ for a while?
Next winter might be a good time to experiment with high waisted pants. This trend has been showing up on runways for several seasons, but never caught on in real life. It’s a good moment to wear something that’s decidedly fashionable, yet far from being overexposed in the streets.
If you could choose the best accessory you saw on the catwalks during Milano Moda Uomo, which one / from which designer would it be?
There’s a shoe in the Prada collection that I really like: it’s adorned with various colorful symbols like arrows and flashes and looks like it belongs to cartoon superhero’s uniform.
What is your favorite place to escape from the fashion week marathon when in you are in Milan?
I like to have a drink at the bar of the Bulgari Hotel. The mood is always serene, even at the height of fashion week.